You are currently browsing the category archive for the ‘travel’ category.
After Terra Madre we flew to Barcelona to meet our good friends and customers Ben and Karen Barker of Magnolia Grill in Durham. This is the second time we have traveled with them in Europe to discover new foods and food stuffs. Yeah I know, sounds like a hard job but trust me this is as much about business as it is about travel. We now have a well developed system. Karen and Ben research the restaurants they want to eat at and we research the farmers’ markets and other kinds of markets in the area near the restaurants.
Typically we will visit a market in the morning looking at displays and for new products, then go and have a great lunch. In the afternoons we will explore some more and then have another great meal in the evening. When eating we all order different dishes and then share them around the table, smelling, tasting, dissecting and discussing what it is, how the chef prepared it, what the ingredients are and so on.
I know for us we are looking for new products (mostly vegetables) to grow or new ways for our customers to use things we already produce. I am sure for the Barkers they are taking home fresh ideas for recipes and plate presentation as well as ingredients.
Ben and Karen had been to the areas we would travel in just last June so had a good idea of the lay of the country and the logistics. We went to some places they had been to before but it was now a different season with different ingredients and dishes. We also found plenty of new places to try too.
Betsy and I flew in Sunday afternoon and had a chance to regroup after the full experience in Italy. 8:00 Monday morning we met the Barkers at the airport, rental car and we are off across the north of Spain. It is about a four hour drive to the Rioja region through an arid landscape that looks like west Texas with lots of wind turbine and solar farms.
I knew from research that we would be driving right by the epicenter of the famous Piquillo pepper, Lodosa. Picked dead red (fully ripe) and usually wood fire roasted and then canned. A medium small conical pepper with thick walls and no heat. We landed in Lodosa at the extended Spanish lunch break and all stores, etc. were closed but there were lots of peppers hanging on the houses drying.
We stayed the night in the old, walled, hilltop town of La Guardia in the heart of the Rioja wine region and on the edge of the Basque country. It was pretty cool out but we walked around the town for a few hours including a tour of the incredible church of Santa Maria de los Reyes with its polychrome portal.
Back to the hotel with a chance for Karen and Ben to rest up from the jet lag and then the first of our typically Spanish, late dinners. The restaurants in Spain don’t even start serving until 8:30 or later.
A great meal with more typical Riojan dishes including two with peppers
Tuesday we hit the small market in town early, picked up some piquillo peppers for seed
and then headed out around the wine country and toured the incredible wine museum.
A great lunch and then we drove on over the mountains to the Atlantic ocean and the city of San Sebastian. On the way you go through a dry country side that reminded me of the wheat producing areas of eastern Washington state.
San Sebastian is on a beautiful bay and is the heart of the Basque country food culture. We stayed here for three nights and each night did the pintxos crawl.
Pintxos (tapas in the rest of Spain) are small dishes that the bars there have developed into a ritual and competition, with each having their specialties. So every evening we would try out 3-4 places and 3-4 dishes at each place.
Each day we would travel the country side. On Wednesday we actually drove over the border into France and to the town of Espelette. Famous for its dried red pepper powder, we stumbled into the middle of its pepper festival. Similar to the piquillo but with some heat. They use it both dried and fresh. Needless to say we brought some of those seeds back too.
Thursday we spent the morning in the good market in San Sebastian, which is actually under ground. The seafood displays were incredible and Ben was teary eyed at the quality and selection and that he can’t get that kind of fish back in North Carolina.
We found several vendors selling the guindilla pepper we wanted to get seeds for. This pepper is used in many of the pintxos and is like eating a green bean, meaty because it is packed with seeds. We also saw several vendors selling “soup kits” an idea we have seen before in Italy.
Friday we drove back to Barcelona for the last three nights of the trip. A big and beautiful city with lots to see but it was packed with people! It was the Day of the Dead holiday weekend and maybe a big soccer game too. People everywhere. A very walkable city and we walked everywhere, which helped with the extra calories we were ingesting.
Saturday’s main objective was to spend the morning at the La Boqueria market, supposed to be the largest and best in Europe.
Truly amazing with every kind of food stuff you can think of, below is a number of shots in the market.
We finished the morning with “breakfast” of a roasted green pepper called cristal (kind of like an Anaheim without heat)
and a plate of fried eggs with baby squid. In the picture you can see my watch next to the glass of red wine, 11:30 a.m., research is hell.
We did of course see a number of the great architectural sites, my favorites being the crazy Gaudi Sagrada Familia cathedral
and the incredible tiled and stained glass Palau de la Musica Catalana.
On our walks we also went into several other really good markets and maybe the biggest florist Betsy has ever seen.
Sunday we walked all the way down to the far tip of the harbor in the Barceloneta and had a really great lunch which included this wonderful paella.
Back on up the Rambla and its masses of people and street performers including this flower inspired guy.
Monday came and it was time to return to the farm. Nineteen days gone is a long time and we were ready to head home. Great trip; food, sights, travel partners. We ended up bringing back five new peppers to try and a new tomato. You can look forward to tasting them next year!
As many of you know we have been fortunate to have now attended all four of the Slow Food Terra Madre international conferences. This gathering of world food communities, from now 162 nations, is an amazing spectacle of people, food and ideas. Our first Terra Madre, in 2004, we were housed with a farm family just outside of the city of Torino and have since become good friends, we have been back to visit six times.
The Piovanno’s raise Piemontese veal under very specific guidelines, from raising the feed all the way through selling it in their own macellaria (butcher shop). The macellaria is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday only and by Saturday evening they are ready for some rest. Because we know this, we try to time our visits to arrive on Sunday afternoon after they have had a chance to relax.
Because the conference started on Thursday we arrived in Italy the Friday before so we could get over the jet lag and be prepared for the whirl wind of activity that accompanies a visit to the Piovannos and the extended Novara family. The last several trips we have flown into Milan, rented a car, and explored some corner of northern Italy before we get to Torino.
This time we started in the far northwest corner, the Valle d’Aosta. The Alps form its mountainous rim and the borders with France and Switzerland, including Monte Bianco (the highest mountain in western Europe at 15,771 feet), Monte Rosa and Monte Cervino (the Matterhorn).
A two to three hour drive from the Malpensa airport put us in the heart of the valley, the town of Aosta. We decided to stay for two nights in Cogne, located in a higher valley, 16 miles further south. An old mining town and now the northern gateway to the Gran Paradiso National Park.
The perfect place to recover from jet lag, see some great scenery and eat the first of many fabulous meals.
This was the view from our balcony as the cows came in from pasture in the evening.
The next day we had hoped would be clear and we could take the cable cars up onto the side of Monte Bianco and it’s glaciers but it wasn’t so instead we toured the old Roman walled town of Aosta, the nearby ski station of Pila and the Fenis castle.
Sunday we made our way to Torino for three days of visits with the family, followed by three more days of Terra Madre and family combined. Monday we had planned to drive down to the Ligurian coast to San Remo, which is the cut flower capital of Italy, to pick up some special Poppy flower seeds which Betsy had been arranging from this side of the Atlantic. It was unclear if we could contact the dealer so we bailed on that plan.
Instead we drove down through the Langhe hills and viewed the wine country, grapes in all directions.
We then made our way back to the farm via Carmagnola, which is famous for its peppers. We stopped in at one roadside stand and they allowed us to walk out into their production houses.
It is the end of their season too and while the plants look tired, the peppers they were picking were beautiful.
Tuesday we got up early and went mushroom hunting with family and friends. It is porcini season and we were up in the foothills in a solid beech forest. Not a lot to be found but it was beautiful.
After the morning of walking the hills we toured the nearby Sacra di San Michele. An amazing monastery perched on top of a rock outcropping that juts out into the valley that leads up to Bardonecchia and one of the Olympic ski areas. This is one of my favorite sites we have seen in Italy, stunning.
Wednesday was a slower day with a late afternoon visit to yet another of the castles, of the Savoy family, that surround Torino. Our family is concerned that they are running out of castles to show us but I’m not worried. Rivoli castle is high on the western side of the city with a grand view over it. Now turned into a modern art museum it is still an imposing structure.
Essentially every evening we all gather at one location for a huge family meal. ”We” being up to fourteen, or more, various family members including uncles, cousins, mothers, brothers, friends, you name it. In many ways these meals are the highlight of our trips both for the food and the conversation. Betsy of course does much better than I do in conversation but this is really how we have come to love and better understand these people and their daily lives. Usually it is at Kati and Michele’s farm but we have convened in other great family homes too. This is one of the rare meals out, at their favorite local pizzeria.
Thursday and it is finally Terra Madre time. The first day is mostly about checking in, getting your badges and the opening ceremonies. It is also the first day of the Salone del Gusto. The Salone is Slow Food’s huge specialty food show showcasing both the world wide Slow Food Presidia projects but also the specialty foods and regions of Italy. Over 150,000 people attend over five days and it is crazy crowded. This first day is the day to see as much as you can before the weekend hordes arrive.
We brought back this new small sauce tomato, a Presidia from Puglia, similar to the fabulous one we have been growing from Campania. We will try and grow it next year and compare the two.
This is a gallery of shots from the Salone including the requisite prosciutto and cheese shots, a copper pot set up for a cheese making class, a new red celery, the world’s largest sides of bacon and an olive harvesting demonstration.
We managed to get about half way through before we had to take the 30 minute walk back to the opening ceremonies held at the Olympic Ice Hockey stadium. A huge crowd with many speakers and a marching in of all the nations flags.
Friday and Saturday is a whirlwind at Terra Madre with workshops, the US delegation meeting, more forays into the Salone and other sights. One of the things that happen is the impromptu world market that sets up in the Terra Madre hall, the people watching is mind boggling.
Each afternoon we shuttled several groups out to see our friend’s farm and macellaria. Their farm is just south of Turin in the town of Stupinigi, famous for the hunting castle of the Savoy’s which is literally what they see when they drive out their gate!
This is the inside of the courtyard of the farm complex and the Piemontese breed that they raise.
This is Kati with our friend Mimo, from Missouri, in the macellaria.
The closing ceremonies are held on Sunday evening but we had to miss them because we had to catch a plane to Barcelona for the second leg of this adventure. It was a sad good bye to all on Saturday night after another great meal that included Sarah, Sabrina and Anna, the rest of our Carrboro Farmers’ Market delegation.






























































































